Cultural historian publishes major new book ‘to re-colour the world of dress’ of Europe’s past
“Colour was perceived as a potent power that shaped, as well as expressed, the soul”
New dyes created one of the most important visual experiences of the Renaissance period, yet their story has been hidden until now, says a St John’s College academic in a major new book published today (17 October).
Theatrical productions and period films uphold broad assumptions that black clothing dominated among elites during the period, while ordinary people wore coarse greys and bleached garments.
However, the truth uncovered by Professor Ulinka Rublack, Professor of Early Modern European History at the University of Cambridge and a Fellow of St John’s College, and her co-editors paints an entirely different picture.
In their book, A Revolution in Colour: Natural Dyes and Dress in Europe, c1400-1800, Professor Rublack, Professor Giorgio Riello (European University Institute, Florence), and Professor Maria Hayward (University of Southampton) set out to re-colour the world of dress in late medieval and early modern Europe.
The volume presents clear evidence that coloured clothing and accessories were ubiquitous across society. Even the clothing of the middle classes could be much more expensive than paintings.
“Colour was perceived as a potent power that shaped, as well as expressed, the soul. Much of this artistic colour world was materially created through dyes and informed by watching and wearing colourful dress in constantly changing shades,” say the authors.
The range of dyes expanded considerably in the 16th and 17th centuries, drawing on Asian and Mediterranean knowledge, new collections of recipes, and the greater diversity of plants available through New World trade.
The creation of colour through dyes reveals a whole range of global agricultural and craft technologies that can inspire future material worlds and transform our understanding of Europe’s cultural heritage.
is published today (17 October).
Published: 17/10/2024